Indoor rose



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Since ancient times, the rose has been considered the queen of flowers, a symbol of beauty and perfection. How graceful are hybrid tea, tea, polyanthus and other types. Undoubtedly, a home rose could be the best decoration in the house. However, growing a rose at home is not an easy task: you need large containers, free space, and an appropriate temperature regime. It is much easier to purchase a room rose, because it does not require a lot of space, and in beauty it is in no way inferior to relatively large relatives.

The beauty of a room rose makes flower growers come to terms with the capricious nature of this flower. This plant can decorate any interior, but so that the rose does not disappoint, you must follow the basic rules for caring for a decorative bush.

Indoor rose after purchase

All varieties of roses are created for growing outdoors, but some of them can be adapted for indoor potting conditions. To provide such a flower with the necessary care, it will take a lot of effort, but new plants require special care.

Today it will not be difficult to buy this flower: in any specialized store you will find a large number of the most diverse varieties of indoor roses. They all differ in shape and color. You just have to make a choice. On the counter, such flowers look as decorative as possible, but it can be difficult to adapt them to home conditions. Without following certain procedures, the bush may soon die.

Such plants get used to the conditions of the store, in addition, special stimulants are added to their soil to promote growth and improve their appearance. Because of their sometimes huge doses, the bushes can be difficult to "switch" to the usual mode of maintenance. In addition, the packaging of the bushes provides them with an increased level of moisture. Having lost this, in a new place the plant begins to experience severe stress. That is why roses brought into the house often begin to turn yellow and wither within a few days after purchase. Without special measures for acclimatization, such a bush can be lost soon. It is worth carrying them out, even if the rose looks healthy and strong.

In order for a room rose to probably take root, you need to choose it carefully. Preference should be given not to the most luxuriantly flowering bushes, but to specimens with the presence of young twigs. Fresh shoots indicate that the bush is actively growing, which means that it has enough energy for acclimatization, and rooting will be easier during transplantation. After the selected rose has been brought home, it needs to be given a few days to adapt to a new place.

  • You need to remove the package from the bush. It does retain moisture, but at the same time contributes to the development of diseases caused by waterlogging and lack of proper ventilation. Often because of this, the bushes can be affected by fungal infections even on the counter.
  • The rose will need to be treated with antifungal and insecticidal drugs for prophylactic purposes. Sometimes these procedures are carried out after the bush is transplanted into fresh soil, but sometimes growers try to process the plant earlier, when the bush will settle down a little in a new place. You can also use improvised means, for example, thoroughly rinse the leaves of the plant with soapy water or arrange a contrast shower for the rose.
  • All affected, dried or withered leaves and shoots are removed from the bush. They are cut with pruning shears or scissors. In addition, you will have to remove all the buds and flowers from the bush. If you leave them in place, the bush will remain decorative only for a while, but at the same time it will spend too much energy on flowering. This will drain the plant and impair its survival rate. While waiting for the end of flowering, the bush can be lost. The buds are advised to be removed along with the shoots on which they are located.
  • After pruning, it will be easier to count the number of plants in one pot. Often, in order for the product to look more impressive, several bushes are planted in one container at once. Such tightness prevents some varieties from developing fully and can also cause diseases. If the bushes begin to oppress each other, such specimens should be planted in separate pots. If you still decide to leave the roses together, so as not to injure the tangled roots, a more voluminous pot is chosen for them.
  • It is recommended to feed the purchased rose only three months after purchase. During this period, the plants must use up the amount of feedings introduced in the store.

How to keep a rose bought in a pot. Indoor roses.

Transplanting a room rose

Transplant a room rose carefully. The bush is watered abundantly and carefully removed from the pot, trying to keep the soil ball. Then the roots of the plant are carefully examined. Healthy roots should be light yellow or white in color and have a firm structure. If the roots are too thin and dark in color, they are most likely withered or beginning to rot. So that this does not lead to the death of the plant, such roots are removed. If the affected areas are too large, and there are almost no healthy roots left, you can try to save the aerial part of the bush by cutting cuttings from it.

Often peat can be used as store soil. In this case, it is advised to completely clean the roots of the bush. The presence of two soils of different composition in one pot will significantly complicate watering: moisture will flow worse to the roots in peat, as a result, some of the roots of the flower may become waterlogged, and some remain dry.

As a new pot, a container with a good drainage layer is used, which is several centimeters larger than the old one, both in height and in diameter. If there is no hole in the bottom of the pot, the size of the drainage layer should be increased. The soil for indoor roses should be specialized, but garden soil may also work. It is not worth saving on the soil for planting: cheap mixtures usually contain a lot of peat and few nutrients. If the soil mixture is prepared independently, it should contain coniferous and leafy soil, in part of sand and humus, as well as a triple portion of leafy soil.

Some soil is poured over the drainage, and the whole thing is compacted slightly. A bush is placed on top, along with a lump of old earth, and the resulting voids are carefully filled in, periodically lightly ramming the soil so that the bush keeps better in it.

The transplanted plant is watered with room filtered or well-settled water. If the soil lump was abundantly moistened before planting, you can skip this step. But in addition to watering, such a plant also requires preventive treatment against pests and diseases. Transplanted roses are especially often affected by them until the weakened bush takes root in a new place, so it is better to protect it in advance. Treatment with a plant immunity stimulant, for example, Epin, will also help. After it, the rose should recover faster. In addition to special means, the bush will also need regular spraying - it needs high humidity. Small bushes can be placed under a jar, cut bottle, or bag with small holes. This will create the desired greenhouse effect for the plant. Such a plant must be accustomed to ordinary indoor conditions gradually.

HOW IT IS CORRECT TO TRANSFER A MINIATURE ROSE AFTER PURCHASE

In addition to moisture, the bush will also need proper lighting. It should be exposed to light one day after transplantation. If there is not enough sunny window in the house, the rose will have to be supplemented. The same conditions are created for the plant in winter.

Indoor roses that have been growing at home for several years are transplanted if they no longer fit in the old pot. They do this no more than once every couple of years, trying to use the transshipment method.

Caring for a room rose at home

Lighting

Indoor roses are very light-requiring, they need a lot of sun for healthy development. Usually pots with them are placed on the southern or southeastern window sills. If the windows are too sunny and hot, the bushes can be slightly shaded or create diffused lighting for them. Darker rooms will require mandatory supplementary lighting in winter.

In order for the bush to form more evenly, it is recommended to turn it towards the light with different sides. Changing the lighting mode (especially towards a brighter light), you should gradually accustom the flower to it.

Temperature

The optimum temperature for growing indoor roses is from +18 to +25 degrees. Since indoor roses are essentially garden plants, they need fresh (but not cold!) Air. Overheating for roses is quite harmful, so in summer the pots with them can be taken out to the balcony or outside. If the bush remains at home, the room with it is regularly ventilated, while trying to protect the plant from drafts. The movement of air contributes to the development of more spectacular and vibrant flowers.

In the fall, a plant that spent the summer in an open place is brought into the house, carefully examining it for the presence of pests. After the end of flowering, the bush begins to prepare for the wintering period. It can be full (deep rest in moderate cold) or partial (the rose remains at home). For home keeping a flower, a room where it keeps about +16 degrees is well suited. You can keep bushes between frames or next to an unplugged window, but the main thing is to remove it away from heating appliances. During this period, the bush can independently shed the foliage, resting from the growing season. In the spring, fresh branches and leaves will appear on it.

If the bush hibernates in an unheated room, you need to carefully wrap the pot or immerse it in sawdust. This will protect the soil from freezing.

Watering mode

For watering a room rose, settled and moderately warm water is usually used. Ice watering can harm the plant. On hot days, the flower can be watered daily, but the excess water from the pan should be drained by waiting about half an hour after watering.

In addition to the usual moistening of the soil, the bush requires periodic (but not daily!) Spraying. This is done both in summer and in winter using mist spraying. But it is important to remember that too frequent spraying can attract pests to the bush or lead to the development of fungal diseases. During flowering, spraying can be stopped - if water gets on the petals, the flowers will lose their attractive appearance faster. If the heat from the batteries reaches the pot, you can place it in a pallet with wet expanded clay.

Before sending the rose for winter holidays, the volume of watering is gradually reduced. In the spring, when fresh growth begins to appear on the bush, the rose again begins to be watered more abundantly.

Fertilizers

Indoor roses are fed regularly using specialized complex formulations. Mullein solution is also suitable. In addition to the usual mineral dressings, foliar dressings can also be carried out. The fertilization period for bushes begins in spring and ends in late autumn. The frequency of application can be from 2 to 3 weeks. Typically, nutrients are applied immediately after watering. During the growing season, you can use mixtures with a predominance of nitrogen, and during the budding period - phosphorus-potassium.

In the fall, the amount of dressings is gradually reduced, and then they completely stop fertilizing the flower until spring. If the rose hibernates in a cold room, nitrogen compounds that stimulate foliage growth are no longer used since August.

The transplanted plants begin to feed only a month after this procedure. Diseased plants are not fed, unless the disease is caused by a lack of nutrients. Also, you should not fertilize roses in rainy and cold weather, especially if the flowerpot is on the balcony or in the garden.

Pruning

Rose buds form only on fresh shoots. In order for a bush growing in a pot to retain its beautiful shape and bloom more luxuriantly, it should be cut regularly. Spring is well suited for such a procedure. The rose is cut off dry, weak, overly elongated or growing inside the bush branches. Fading flowers are also pruned, cutting off the peduncle to the next bud.

Sometimes flower growers prune a room rose not in spring, but in autumn, before sending a faded bush for the winter. The stalks are shortened to the level of 5 buds, while the foliage is not removed. Pruning like this in autumn helps to stimulate earlier flowering in the next season, as well as give the bush a neat look in advance.

Bloom

Indoor roses form small but very showy buds. The color of flowers can be very diverse: today there are many varieties that differ in their decorative characteristics.

If the indoor rose is happy with the growing conditions, it will bloom almost the whole year with interruptions of 1.5-2 months. The most lush flowering can be achieved by providing the plant with a cool winter. It is in such conditions that the bush will be able to properly rest and gain strength for a new flowering. Before this, the shoots should be shortened to 10 cm in length.

How to care for a home rose - Everything will be good - Issue 175 - 05/01/2013 - Everything will be fine

Breeding methods for indoor roses

The easiest way to propagate a room rose is by cuttings. For this, planting material with an approximate length of 15 cm is suitable, and several buds should remain on the selected branch. Usually, healthy shoots removed during pruning are used for this. The lower cuts on them are made oblique, and the upper ones are straight. The stalk is planted in a small glass filled with light soil, and covered with a transparent cap on top. The rooting process usually takes about two weeks. You can put the cuttings in a glass of water, in this case they are planted when the roots that appear have grown properly. They do not change the water in the container, only sometimes adding new water there. You can add activated carbon or a root formation stimulant to it.

When fresh leaves begin to appear on the handle, they begin to accustom him to the usual room environment, temporarily removing the cap from it. When the plant is properly rooted and strong enough, it can be moved to a permanent location. Cuttings planted in autumn can bloom by next summer.

pruning a room rose and propagating a rose by cuttings

Indoor rose pests and diseases

Drying bush

Home roses most often begin to dry in summer or winter. In the summer, the reason for this may be too much evaporation of moisture: in the heat, the rose especially needs sufficient moisture in the soil and air. The bush must be regularly watered and sprayed with its foliage. In winter, the reason for the drying of the leaves is the high dryness of the air, caused by the operation of heating devices. This happens especially often if the pot is too close to the radiator or heater. Dry foliage can also be caused by trauma or root disease. Because of this, the plant absorbs moisture and nutrients worse.

Why indoor miniature roses dry. Garden World site

If the rose begins to dry, it is necessary to identify the problem of this behavior as soon as possible. The dry soil is moistened, the pot is removed away from heating devices, and the foliage is thoroughly sprayed or the plant is placed on a pallet filled with wet pebbles. Small shrubs can be covered with a bag or jar until their foliage is healthy.

If all these methods did not help, most likely, the problem lies in the root system.The flower will have to be pulled out of the pot and carefully examine its roots for damage. If there are too many darkened roots, it will no longer be possible to help the plant. In this case, cuttings are cut from the bush, which are re-rooted.

Leaves turn yellow

There may be several reasons for the yellowing of the foliage of a room rose. Among them:

  • Decay of roots;
  • Too abundant watering, leading to a lack of air in the root system;
  • Invasion of pests;
  • Chlorosis caused by iron deficiency;
  • Lack of nutrients.

Noticing that the leaves on the rose turn yellow, the first step is to check if the substrate in the pot is too wet. If water stagnates in it, watering should be suspended for a while and then significantly reduced. In this case, spraying is carried out in the same mode. If the roots of the plant, due to the constant presence in moisture, began to rot, all affected areas should be cut off, and then the plant should be transplanted into fresh soil, trying to provide sufficient drainage for it. The root rot can also be caused by the weakening of a plant that has fallen into insufficiently comfortable conditions.

If a recently purchased and not yet transplanted rose has begun to turn yellow, it must be moved to a new container as soon as possible, observing all the rules for transplanting such new plants.

The reason for the yellowing of a room rose can also be a poor-quality soil containing an insufficient amount of nutrients necessary for a flower. You can try to compensate for their lack by feeding the rose with a complex composition (it is advisable to use special fertilizers for this type of plants). If after some time the leaves on the bush began to turn yellow again, it is recommended to transplant the plant into a more nutritious soil. Garden soil is not suitable for a flower.

Bushes can react especially sharply to a lack of iron. Because of this, chlorosis can affect the foliage. You can fight its manifestations with the help of iron-containing preparations, using iron chelate or Ferrovit in the proportions indicated on the package. Sometimes too cold water for irrigation can hinder the absorption of nutrients. In ice water, such elements dissolve much worse than in room water, so its temperature must be monitored.

Leaves darken, wither and fly around

If the foliage does not dry out and flies around, but withers and falls off, there can also be several reasons:

  • A large number of cold drafts: this happens especially often if the room is ventilated in winter or the pot is standing directly in the cold wind;
  • Cold water for irrigation;
  • Fungal or viral diseases;
  • The appearance of pests.

Dark and lethargic foliage and twigs are removed. If the rose just froze, after some time it will recover on its own, dropping the frozen leaves.

Due to fungal diseases, the branches of the bush begin to darken, plaque, plaques or growths appear on their surface, and the foliage becomes spotty. These diseases also include rust and powdery mildew. In case of infection, the affected plant, according to the instructions, is treated with an antifungal drug, for example, Fitosporin.

Viral diseases usually cause discoloration of the leaf plates. They acquire a mosaic color and can also deform. Infected stems need to be pruned. So that the weakened bush does not get sick again, it is necessary to create more favorable conditions for it, you can also use stimulants of the immune system.

Bushes can be affected by aphids, thrips and various types of mites. Rose pests can be recognized by the marks they leave. Usually, these can be small dots, stripes or spots on the leaves, as well as a cobweb. To avoid the appearance of such insects, it is recommended to periodically process the plant with Fitoverm in the summer.

Types and varieties of room roses with a photo

Baby Masquerade

Forms compact bushes up to 30 cm tall. On slightly branched branches, there are practically no thorns. The foliage is small, dark green, with a glossy surface. The size of the flowers reaches 4 cm. Their color changing over time is remarkable. The buds have a lemon color, gradually changing to pink, and then to a blurred red. Flowering lasts almost continuously, while the bush exudes a delicate aroma reminiscent of fruit. The variety is considered disease resistant.

Angela Rippon

Forms miniature bushes up to 40 cm tall. Pink-carmine flowers are up to 4 cm in size and are located in inflorescences in several pieces. A strong enough aroma is emitted. On branched shoots there are dense leaf blades of a rich green color. The variety has a number of features: such plants grow well even in small pots, do not require pruning, but require preventive treatments for spotting and powdery mildew. It is recommended to feed such a rose more often, using reduced doses of fertilizers.

Easter Morning

The variety is notable for its high resistance to fungal diseases. Small, densely leafy bushes consist of straight twigs. The foliage has a glossy sheen. Double flowers are yellowish-white in color. Their diameter reaches 4 cm. The aroma is weak. The inflorescence can contain up to 25 flowers. Flowering lasts almost continuously.

Fire Princess

Bushes 30-40 cm in size. Shoots are vertical, branched, covered with small shiny leaves of a dark green hue. The edge of the leaf blade has small denticles. The size of the flowers reaches 4 cm. They have a red-orange color and are collected in inflorescences from 3 to 5 pieces. Inflorescences are located at the top of the shoots. The variety is quite vulnerable to fungal diseases.

Hummingbird (Colibri)

It has two forms, developed by Meilland. The first was created in 1958, the second, improved - two decades later. The height of the bushes reaches 35 cm, they are formed by slightly inclined shoots with weak branching. The foliage is dense, shiny, dark green in color. The size of the flowers reaches 5 cm, they exude a delicate aroma and are collected in inflorescences up to 5 pieces in each. Terry flowers can contain up to 25 petals. Their color ranges from yellow-orange to rich apricot. The bush blooms several times a year.

Yellow Doll

The species was created in the 60s. Forms small bushes up to 30 cm tall. The bloom is abundant, while the number of petals on each flower can reach 50. They exude a subtle pleasant smell and have a rich lemon-yellow color.

Stars and Stripes

The variety, which appeared in the mid-70s in the United States, became the ancestor of most of the roses with striped petals. It has narrow bushes up to 60 cm tall. Shoots are straight, branched, almost devoid of thorns. The foliage has a light green tone. Spectacular double flowers are painted white, while on the surface of the petals there are crimson strokes and stripes of different lengths and widths. Flowers are collected in small inflorescences. The flowering period lasts almost without interruption.

Green Ice

Forms a shrub up to 60 cm in height and up to 80 cm in width in comparison with other domestic varieties. The foliage is dark green. Flowering lasts in waves, while even in the intervals between them, at least a few flowers remain on the bush. Their color is quite original: it is white with a greenish tint, while the buds have a pale pink color. There is a green spot in the center of each flower. In inflorescences 3-5 buds are formed. The variety is also popular due to its resistance to fungal diseases.


Indoor roses: care and cultivation

Ornamental flowering plants
  1. Room rose
  2. Light mode for indoor roses
  3. Air mode required for a room rose
  4. Land for a room rose
  5. Watering indoor roses
  6. Fertilizers for indoor roses
  7. Reproduction of roses
  8. Pruning roses
  9. Diseases of roses
  10. Winter rose care
  11. Spring rose care


Description of the plant

The eustoma has strong stems, which in open ground can reach a meter in height. Moreover, they are very graceful, like a carnation. Almost from the middle, the stems begin to branch, turning into a whole bouquet, numbering up to 35 buds, which bloom alternately.

The leaves of the eustoma are lanceolate-oval, dull, like wax, painted in a bluish or grayish tint. The calyx of the flower is deep and large, funnel-shaped. Flowers can be double and simple (depending on the variety), painted in different shades - lilac, pink, purple, white, solid or with a bright contrasting border.

When the bud is half-open, it looks very much like a rose, when the flower opens fully, it looks like a magnificent terry poppy. Under natural conditions, eustoma is a biennial plant, in garden cultivation it is usually annual.


Room rose care

Caring for a room rose and growing it consists of several significant moments. Never overheat the plant! The rose is able to tolerate small frosts, and heat is contraindicated for it. The temperature for plant development should not exceed 25 ° C. Place the plant on a light-colored window. To maintain an optimal temperature, especially in hot weather, regularly ventilate the room and cover the rose pot from direct sunlight.

The best option is the east and west windows. Even airing and good watering cannot save a room rose on the south window from overheating. The leaves will dry up and the buds will fall off without even blooming. Such a window is perfect only in winter.

Water the rose regularly and abundantly. She needs it just like people need air. When the earth dries up, the flower quickly dies, especially during the flowering period. Just don't overdo it. It is not necessary to allow stagnation of water in the pan, and therefore after thirty minutes, excess water must be drained. Water the plant every day in hot weather. No need to spray the leaves daily. To get rid of dust, the rose will only need a shower once a week. Excessive humidity is good for indoor rose pests. Frequent spraying is the cause of fungal diseases.

Caring for a room rose is quite difficult, since the plants are very demanding and whimsical, they need fertilization. Indoor rose blooms almost all the time, which takes a lot of energy from the plant. For this, top dressing is needed, which helps to restore them. From early spring until frost, the rose must be fed with mineral and organic substances, periodically replacing them. Liquid fertilizer is best suited for this purpose. It can be found at the flower shop.

With the onset of warmth, the indoor rose must be taken out to the balcony or courtyard. The rose feels great outdoors. Fresh air has a beneficial effect on the development of the plant and on its flowering. With the appearance of the first buds, it is better to cut them off. In the future, this will have a positive effect on their appearance. Thanks to this, the indoor rose blooms longer and more abundantly until the very frost. Fading flowers also need to be removed on time. It is best to do this before the plant begins to shed its petals on its own. The plant needs periodic pruning. All dried twigs, leaves must be removed immediately in order to prevent the appearance of diseases.

By the end of summer, make sure the fertilizer is nitrogen-free. At this time, the rose is preparing for rest, and now it does not need fertilization. Now place the flowers in a cool place where the air temperature does not exceed 10 ° C. From October to February, the leaves of the rose turn yellow. There is no need to be afraid, this is provided by nature itself, and new leaves will appear to replace fallen leaves in spring.

In February, prepare the rose for awakening and move it to a warmer room, transplant it into a new land. Provided that the rose has successfully survived the cold, then in March the rose will give its first flowers. And to speed it up, you need to know how to prune a room rose. This procedure is carried out with the appearance of the first kidneys. Shorten each twig by only one third, and if the shoot has no buds, it must be cut off entirely. Now water the plant well, feed it, and don't forget to ventilate the room. When it gets warm, put the rose back to fresh air. Observing all these rules for caring for a room rose, you will achieve the maximum decorative effect from your rose.


Transplanting and caring for a purchased room rose

The flower shops mainly sell miniature species brought from abroad, which means that the plants are weakened by various regulators and growth stimulants. Having delivered such a rose home, you will need to take care of transplanting it into a larger pot of fresh soil.

If the flower is young, the first buds will have to be removed, no matter how sorry they are. But by sacrificing a few small buds, you will get an abundantly flowering bush in return. The first bud that appears should not just be removed, but the stem should be pinched over a well-developed bud, from which two shoots will appear at once. They will need to do the same procedure with pinching the stems. And with the advent of third-order shoots, it is already possible to safely allow the home rose to bloom!

Flowering, well-developed plants are often treated with drugs that slow down the development of new buds. However, as soon as the drug stops working, the buds actively start growing, and the bush can quickly acquire an irregular shape and untidy appearance. This usually happens closer to spring, so you first need to have time to carry out the formative pruning of the bush, and your home beauty will remain compact.

Blooming, well-developed miniature roses are often treated with drugs that slow down the development of new buds.

As for the transplant, you should not carry it out on the same day when you purchased the rose. Let the plant get used to the new conditions a little. To do this, place the flower pot on the southeast or east window and water as needed for several days.

The transplant is carried out as follows:

  • prepare a pot slightly larger than the one in which the plant was
  • if other flowers have grown in the pot before, wash it with warm water without soap
  • on the bottom of the pot, lay a layer of expanded clay for drainage of 1 cm, in the absence of a drain hole, make the drainage layer 3 cm
  • sprinkle a nutritious soil mixture from turf soil, humus and sand on top of expanded clay, adding complex fertilizer
  • sprinkle the soil with fertilizer with a layer of soil without fertilizer so as not to burn the roots
  • Water the purchased home rose abundantly and after 20 minutes, carefully remove it from the previous container, trying not to destroy the clod of earth and not damage the roots (fertilizer granules remaining in the roots should not be washed off)
  • set the stem with a lump of earth in the pot (the root collar should be underground), sprinkle with soil mixture on all sides, compact it and add enough soil on top so that a couple of centimeters remain to the edge of the pot
  • spray foliage with water and place in a shaded area.

Within a day, it will be possible to move the transplanted rose to its permanent place and water it under the root with settled water as the soil dries out. Starting next month, start feeding by watering the plant every two weeks with a solution of mineral fertilizer or spraying the leaves.


We bought a room rose. How to look after?

Indoor indoor roses belong to the Rosaceae family. Their height does not exceed 50 cm.

The varieties of the flower are as follows:

  • - climbing rose
  • - ground cover
  • - standard.

REFERENCE! Most often, common bush types of roses are on the windowsills of most people.

The leaves of the indoor flower are thin and carved, juicy green. Flowers of various sizes, color white, pink, scarlet.

It is noteworthy that China is considered the birthplace of indoor roses.Of all the varieties of dwarf flowers, only the presented version blooms throughout the goal, the rest take short breaks.

ATTENTION! Roses growing at home in pots can be easily planted on the site, only first cover them all with special material for the winter.


What to look for when buying a plant

Be sure to remove the gift bag, inspect the stems, they should not have black areas. If there are black spots on the stems, refuse to buy this specimen.

Make sure the plant is not shedding leaves. They should adhere firmly to the plant, cover the stems to ground level and be green, glossy, elastic. Faded and decaying leaves indicate that the plant was "worn out" during transportation. Matte leaves with whitish dots indicate that the plant is affected by a spider mite. The large number of yellow leaves at the bottom of the stems indicates that the plant has become depleted from prolonged transportation and being in the store. Brown or black spots on the leaves are a sign of mushroom spots. The presence of white spots with a small fluff - another fungal disease - powdery mildew.

Inspect the plants for pests: mealybug (lumps that look like cotton in the axils of the leaves), scale insects (brown small cakes that look like droplets of wax are removed with a fingernail, often along the veins of the leaf), whiteflies (white small capsules on the back of the leaf), thrips (silvery strokes on on the upper side of the leaf, thin nimble flies can be seen in flowers), aphids (usually densely cover the upper parts of the shoots), spider mites (whitish leaves, powdery bloom on the underside of the leaf, sometimes a cobweb is visible).

After purchasing the plant wash the rose under a warm shower, this procedure will clear the leaves of road dust, greatly reduce the population of spider mites, if any.

Carefully remove the lump from the pot; if it is strongly entwined with roots, it should be immediately transferred (without replacing the soil and separating the bushes) into a slightly larger pot with the addition of fresh soil for roses.

For prophylaxis against insect pests, it is advisable to treat with Aktara (shed with a solution of 1 g / 10 l and sprinkle the leaves with a solution of 4 g / 5 l).

Upon detection black patches on the stems remove them just below the damage. Provide the rose with a very bright and well-ventilated area.

If dark spots (spots), white bloom (powdery mildew) on the leaves, gray fluff on leaves or flowers (gray mold) are found, it should be treated against fungal diseases fungicide preparations (Hom, Topaz, Skor, Colloidal sulfur, etc.).

Multiply roses by cuttings, the technology is the same as when cutting other plants, in detail - in the article Cutting indoor plants at home. Cuttings are best taken immediately after flowering.



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